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18. Irredeemable Losses

 

 

The Treaty of Holston in 1791 pushed the Cherokee boundary westward to the French Broad River.  Conflict between the Cherokees and the ever advancing white settlements continued.  As the first settlers began to move into the area they were closely followed by itinerant preachers, land speculators and government surveyors.

 

 

The Connecticut Courant, Hartford Connecticut

 

Knoxville, Sept. 12, 1792.  I am sorry to inform you of our present alarming situation – the five Chickamauga towns as well as the Creeks, have declared war against the United States, and the celebrated John Watts has marched at the head of 500 Warriors with the intent of committing depredations on some part of the frontiers, many imagine they are distined against this place, others Cumberland, Unaneketi is in the number.  Last night a sentry, at a station not more than nine miles from here hence, was fired at.  The people at Nine Mile, which I left yesterday, are preparing to erect fortifications, as they are all on the frontiers of this country.  We have nothing but musterings and expresses, and War talks frequently.  I was fortunately in Chota at the critical period of their declaring war, and discovering the result of their councils, rode all night express, to give Governor Blount the information.  The Governor immediately called the people of the country out for the defence of the frontiers.  I must conclude, my friend, with the hope that Congress will relieve our helpless state, in doing which no time is to be lost.  [1]

 

 

Governor Blount to Secretary of War Knox –

Another reason for these depredations is, that the white people living among the Cherokees, (the greatest of all rascals) and the half-breeds, who are numerous, and mostly traders, encourage the Indians to steal horses from all the citizens of the United States, to the end that they might purchase them.  Thus encouraged, the Indians go into the frontier settlements in search of horses, and if they find an unarmed person or family, they fall on them; and if they take horses and are pursued, kill in their own defense.  [2]

 

French-Broad, Sept 19, 1792.

I have been informed that there are 600 Indians out against this part of the country - likewise, that they have killed two men, brothers, of the name Gillespy, who live on Holston, below Knoxville, and that Knoxville is evacuated.

 

Winchester, Nov. 12, 1792.

Intelligence from the Cherokee Nation respecting the attack on Buchanan's Station. The party who attacked the station consisted of 197 Cherokees, 83 Creeks, and the Shawanese Warrior, with his party, consisting of 300; and the whole commanded by Captain John Watts.  The Shawanese Warrior, a Creek Chief, and several others were killed and a number wounded, among whom is John Wats, who it is highly probable cannot recover.  He was shot in both his thighs, the ball passed through the upper part of one and lodged in the other.

John Watts is a half-breed, a stout, bold and enterprising man, about 40 years of age; and is the life and spirit of the junior part of the Cherokee Nation.

 

Jan. 7, 1793.

Proclamation

By the President of the United States

Whereas I have received authentic information, that the certain lawless and wicked persons of the western frontier, in the State of Georgia, did lately invade, burn and destroy a town belonging to the Cherokee Nation, although in amity with the United States, and put to death several Indians of that nation; and whereas such outrageous conduct, not only violates the rights of humanity, but also endangers the public peace; and it highly becomes the honor and good faith of the United States to pursue all legal measures for the punishment of those atrocious offenders; I have therefore thought fit to issue my proclamation, hereby exhorting all the citizens of the United States, and requiring all the officers thereof, according to their respective stations, to use the utmost endeavors to apprehend and bring those offenders to justice.  And, I do moreover offer a reward of Five Hundred Dollars, for each and every of the above named persons, who shall be apprehended and brought to justice, and shall be provided to have assumed or exercised any command or authority among the preperators of the crime aforesaid, at the time of committing the same.

In testimony whereof, I have cause the seal of the United States to be affixed to these presents, and signed the same with my hand.  Done at the city of Philadelphia, the twelfth day of December, in the year of our Lord, one thousand, seven hundred and ninety-two, and of the Independence of the United States in the seventeenth.

By the President

GEORGE WASHINGTON

TH. JEFFERSON  

 

 

The Gazette of the United States, Philadelphia, Pa.

 

Knoxville, Nov. 29, 1794.

On the 24^th of October last, a party of Indians fired upon John Leper and another man, near the house of the former on the east fork of Red River, Tennessee country.  On the same day, another party of Indians killed and scalped Evan Watkins, within one hundred yards of Col. Winchester’s Mill in Sumner county.

These two places are 70 miles distant from one another.  On the 25^th of the same month, a party of twelve fellows were discovered crossing the road between Bledsoe’s Lick and Shaver’s Cabins.  On the following day, Cornet Evans was fired upon between Bledsoe’s Lick and Colonel Winchester’s by four fellows; and on the 26^th the spies discovered a party of thirteen Indians crossing the Cumberland River, towards the settlements, within five miles of Colonel Winchester’s.

These several parties, appearing in and about the settlements nearly at the same time, spread an unusual degree of alarm among the inhabitants.  Families in general throughout the neighborhood shut themselves up in their stations, and all intercourse ceased for several days, except by patrolling parties.  The people exclaimed, Congress could not know their sufferings, and have the feeling of men, or they would take measures to give them effectual protection.

On the fifth instant, a party of fifty Indians, on the waters of Red River, Tennessee country, fell upon the families of Col. Issac Titsworth, and his brother, John Titsworth, and killed and scapled seven white persons, wounded a negro wench, and took a white man, three children, and a negro fellow prisoners.  Pursuit was given by the neighboring militia, and the Indians discovering their approach, tomahawked the three children and scalped them, taking off the whole skin of their heads.  The white man and negro fellow were either killed, or carried off.  Our informant from Mero district, supposes these murders to have been committed by Creeks.  [3]

 

Silas Dinsmoor –

Peace is the general talk of this country and I believe it is really the desire of the Cherokees to bury the hatchet and not shed anymore blood.  Would to God that the frontier people were of the same mind. . . .

The Whites say they cannot distinguish between the Cherokees and Creeks, and I believe it would not be transgressing the bounds of Charity to say they do not wish to distinguish. . . .

Two of their people were killed a short time since by a scout from South Carolina for stealing horses.  The honest people among them consider it as just, and the headmen have prevailed on the relations to accept white beads and not to take satisfaction.  The stealing of horses, will, I fear, continue while the white people encourage them to it by purchasing them.  The licensed traders at Tuskeega have lately purchased some horses knowing them to have been stolen from the frontiers of Georgia. [4]

 

Secretary Knox to President Washington -

The Indians being the prior occupants posses the right to soil.  It cannot be taken from them unless by their free consent. . . . To dispossess them in any other principle would be a gross violation of the fundamental laws of nature, and of that distributive justice which is the glory of a nation. [5]

 

 

Journal of Bishop Francis Asbury

 

Monday, 5 [April 1790].  We made an early move.  After worming the stream for a while, we took through the Laurel Hill, and had to scale the mountains, which in some places were rising like the roof of a house.  We came to the head of Watauga River; a most neglected place.  Here the people have had their corn destroyed by frost, and many of them have moved away.  It was thus we found it in Tyger’s Valley.  We passed by W____’s, a poor lodging, and slept at the Beaver Dam in a cabin without a cover, except what a few boards supplied: we had very heavy thunder and lightening, and most hideous yelling of wolves around; with rain, which is frequent in the mountains. [6]

 

Wednesday, 27 [March 1793].  We began our journey over the great ridge of mountains:  we had not gone far before we saw and felt the snow;  the sharpness of the air gave me a deep cold, not unlike an influenza.  We came to the head of Watauga River. . . .  We hastened on to Cove’s Creek, invited ourselves to stay at C _____’s, where we made our own tea, obtained some butter and milk, and some most excellent Irish potatoes:  we were presented with a little flax for our beds, on which we spread our coats and blankets, and three of us slept before a large fire.

Thursday, 28.  We made an early start, and came to the Beaver Dam; three years ago we slept here in a cabin without a cover.  We made a breakfast at Mr. W _____’s; and then attempted the iron or stone mountain, which is steep like the roof of a house.  I found it difficult and trying to my lungs to walk up it.  Descending the mountain, we had to jump down the steep stairs, from two to three and four feet.  At the foot of this mountain our guide left us to a man on foot; he soon declined, and we made the best of our way to Julius Dugger’s ford, on Roans Creek.  We came down the river, where there are plenty of large, round, rolling stones, and the stream was rapid.  My horse began to grow dull:  an intermittent fever and a deep cold disordered me much.  I was under obligations to Henry Hill, my new aid, who was ready to do anything for me in his power.  Perhaps Providence moved him to offer to travel with me, and his father to recommend him.  Twenty years ago a rude, open loft did not affect me – now it seldom fails to injure me. [7]

 

Saturday, 22 [March 1794].  My soul enjoys peace; but O! for more of God!  This campaign has made me “groan, being burdened”.  Bad news on my coming to the mountains; neither preachers nor elders have visited Swannanoah since last October; poor people - poor preachers that are not more stable: but all flesh is grass, and I am grass.

Sunday, 30.  After riding about five miles, I came to a meeting house: it was a cabin half floored, with long open windows between the logs. [8]

 

 

 

 

John Brown’s Journal of Travel

 

Thursday the 8^th day of January, 1795 started from Joansbury Southwest Ohio River in the Company with Mr. Nathaniel Taylor & Mr. Steedman who Rode one mile on his way to the Citty and there we Parted we agreed to meet in fortytwo Days at Wilk’s Coarthouse in Noarth Carrolina Mr. Taylor and myself agreed with John peoples to keep Mr. Steedmans mare two month at four dollars per Month

9^th I staid at a Mr. Taylors & it Rain’d the 10^th started & Rode ten mils to Little Doe River we Cross'd it several times we Rode 4 Miles to Big Doe River we fed our hoarses at one Mulkim and he woul'd charge us we crossed Doe River Near thirty times and it was Deep and I was wet to the Knees and it was allow'd to be the Coldest Day they had this wintr we Rode 8 Miles to Som Creek on a Bottom between the Mounatins 400 Acres and several famleys living thereon we Staid at one of the houses all night the most Durty Place I have ever seen the Live upon Venison when the Kill a Deer they hing it up and Cuts away until used

Sunday the 11^th Started after we Breckfusted & I had hir’d a Hugh Mulhe to go with us to the top of the Mountain Call’d the Yellow Mountain which the Sade was almost Passable as there was three Men Lay on it the night before and had nearly Perche’d.  we Rode about four Mills to one Phillips wher we found a Woman and Six Children who lived in a small shack the children went three of them to a very bad bed and Try'd to kiver themselves but coul'd not Keep from the coald they Shiver'd like a Dog that lay out of Doors  we started and Rode about a Mile when we Came to some snow on the Mountain where we found it Very difficult to Get our hoarses along we had about five Miles of Snow it was so deep that the hoarses had to Strain and often Jump we hardly went more than five Rod at a time the mountain is very high the land is very Rich and every Kind of timber & no Stone on the top of the mountain we Crossed the line between the Territory and North Carolina from Washington to Berk and the top of the mountain is Clear not a Stump nor Tree I suppos two hundred acres in it and we cou’d see mountains on every side a great ways when we Came to the foot of the mountain we Came to Toe River a Stream Near 30 yards wide we Crossed it and feed our hoarses on the Bank of one of our Blankets in a fine bottom which was as Rich as any Land and Remarkable for white thorn & Crab Tree.  I think there is a thousand acres we crossed Toe River near twenty times and got to one Joans we Computed it to be twenty miles we Traveled this day Monday the 12^th  we took Breckfust and set out and Rode four Miles to a Mr. Devinport who has a large Bottom on toe River and Mersh he is a great hunter I suppose we seen one hundred deer skins we set out after we had Chang’d  some hard money for Prock and we Crossed the River in about a Mile from thence we Rode five miles to the top of a Blew Mountain or Back Bone of the Earth as they Call it and one Mile down through the Best Timber'd Land with as Rich a Soil as I ever seen here we came on the waters of Cuttaby. . . .

Then we Rode about half a Mile to Linville Creek and about one Mile to a Mr. Wakefields where we staid he use’d us very well his wife got a chicken for supper my Comrade Taylor and myself Eat very harty and went to bed Mr. Taylor lay about two hours and got very sick and get up and Puck'd Very much I was sick also But Lay to morning ( it snow'd a little in night ) and was very bad with a Lax I Vometed after I got on hoarseback on Teausday morning the 13^th we  Rode about a mile to a house  Mr Taylor Cou'd not ride any further we Try'd to get some Tea But it all in vane we got a Tinfull of milk scalded with Pepper and Drank it from thence we started and Rode 10 Miles to an atturny’s Weitselle Every’s and his Lady us’d us very well and did not Charge us anything . . .

 

I Bot a hoars and Paid him 65 Dollars in the morning of the 22d 1785 we Rode 19 miles to a Mr. Edmiston’s and feed our hoarses at the feet of the Blew Mountain that divides the waters that Runs Easterly and Westernly and the lines of Bumcombe & Burk County's Runs on the Extream hight thereof we Came to a flat Creek in the head of Swanow which Runs into Swanano & Swanano Empties into the French Broad River & we Rode 10 miles to a Mr. Dunsmore and feed our hoarses from thence we Rode 10 miles to a Mr. William’s Deputy Surveyor in Buncomb County and we Staid all night it hail’d & snowd all night and in the morning of Jay. 23d 1795 I went and got my hoarse shod and it Rain’d   we Staid that night at Mr. Williams in the morning of the 24^th we set out and Rode 17 mils to the Entery Taker of Buncomb County and we Try’d to Paun our money with him but Cou’d not get him to take more than 36 Guineas he appear’d to Scruple the Money for Counterfeit we Rode from his house 10 miles after night Crosed the Swanano River at the mouth where it Emties into French Broad River supposed to be near a quarter wide and we Staid all night at Mr. Foster  on the 25^th we Rode 2 miles to Buncomb Coart hous where there is a few Cabins . . . .

 

. . . I Recd a letter from Mr. Williams the deputy Surveyor of Buncomb County informing me that there had been large Quantitys of land Enter’d and when Mr. McCoy arrived he Confirm’d the Asurtion But he had entered two hundred thous for me on the 3^rd March 95 the Enterey Taker of Burk Came to Town I immeadiately apply’d to make more Entrys the Town was throung’d with People it being the first week of the Superier Couart we Concluded to go out of Town to get a privet house & on the 4^th we set our & I made near two hundred entrys in the Evening Return'd to Town and when we Return'd there was a Ceartain Company set to & wrote Locations for one hundred thousand Acres and Put them into his hands the 5th . . .  on the 6th I started Mr. McCoy to Buncomb with 92 pounds Prock to make some more Entery's   on the 7th I was Press'd by a Company that had four hundred thousand Acrs for sale they had Paid the Entry mony which is 4 pr Every 640 Acres and Promised to pay the Surveying fees they aply'd to Know what I wou'd gave I told 8 Dollar pr thounds . . . .

 

started and rode two Miles to Cuttaby River & Crossed and Rode 15 miles to linvel River and Continu’d 9 mils to Mr. Youngs over linvel mountain & I feed my hoarse and Come up with an old man that Traveled me we Rode 10 miles and Crossed the Blew mountain & he stop’d at a Mr. Carsons I Continu’d three mils to the main Branch of the Nolichucky River Called Toe River here I staid at a Mr. Taylor's all Night the People lives uncomen poor & mostly heve the Each & as durty as dirt will make them I started in the morning of the 15^th and Rode 4 miles down the River & Crossed it Twice this Country’s lands are Rich But very Hilley I Continu’d 10 mils to a Mr. Bakers at the foot of the Iron when I came there Mr. Taylor had left a letter for me & he was six miles from that at Mr. Petter Hughes I set out after getting a Kind of a Breckfast and Rode to Mr. Hughes along the most hilly Rode I went we Crossed the Poncon mountain when I got Mr. Hughes I met Mr. Taylor & four hands without any provitions I got half a Bushel of Coarn & Some Provitions to do for two Days & the set out I agree’d to meet them on the Iron Mountain & I Travel in Company with Mr. Tho. Ash we Rode 4 miles  to the Nolichucky River it is  the line between Burk & Buncomb County from thence we Continu'd Down the River five miles & Rode it when it had Nearly swam our hoarses we got over safe But when we got to a house there was nothing for man nor hoarse we had turn our hoarse out and ley down it Rain’d hailed & Thundered very hard in the Night in the morning on the 16^th we got up at daylight & set to hunt our hoarses & found them handy we got as mutch meal as made a Jonny Cake & got a small Pice of Venicen & made a Kind of a Breakfust our hoarse was suffering for feed we start’d Rode 6 mils to an old harmit who lived by himself in the most horrd Place I ever seen just on the River side  we Contin’d after inquireing for Coarn to Cross the Onacom Mounta the highest I ever Crose’d  . . .

 

we Rod 7 mils to Mr. Joshua Williams Debuty Surveyor for Buncombe County we got some diner and I agree’d with him mak Some Surveys he mintion’d that our Locations was interspers’d through Mr. Ragsdale Enterys and it would be more Proper to wate to their Surveys was made I was very uneasy to Know what to do.  I Expected to Meet Mr. Taylor & we Rode down to the Seat of Justice for Sad County which was 8 mils and Lodged at Mr. Streets we had very Poor intertainment this Town is but two Days walk from the Cherokee Nation they keep near Sixty men out about 7 miles distant from Town in small garisons to Prevent the Indians from Comeing in on them this Town stands a mile distant from French Broad and a mile Below where the Swanno River empties into the French Broad the settlement is very thin and they live But very indiferently . . . .

 

the Swanno River was att least 8 feet higher than it had ever been nown since inhabited by white People it don a very Considerable damage to the People Who liv'd near the River it sweep whole Coan feels off also all the fences we ware allarm'd in the morning by one of the People he lived on the River at Mr. Williams he gave an Act. of a Man and his Wife Being distress'd  the watter had Surrounded thir house in the night and in the Morning it Continu’d Rising & got into the house the man and Wife with a young Woman who live’d with him had to Wade out near hinch deep in watter to the highest part of ther island & he help’d his wife up into the fork of a large Tree & the young woman also his wife’s Infant of which she was delive’d two weeks since he was then Riduced to the Needcessity of take his shelter on a high Stump where he stood and wated his fate the watter Continu’d Riseing to near Eleven oclock at which time the watter was up Near the mans middle who stood on the Stump the having got at the Hight fell very fast and in the afternoon the watter had fell so he got Back to his house Mr. Williams & myself went in the evening and the People had gather’d and halled a Cannoe & Procur’d their Escape when we ware there it was Truly distressing to see the mother & infant . . . .

 

on the 26th I agree with Mr. Hugh Tate to Make som Entery's of lands in Buncombe County and be equal Partners with him and his Brother Samuel I taken in so that I cou'd make the Sale in the Citty and I Paid him fifteen pounds Peaper mony on the 27th and got Mr. Cochran to assist me  to make a power of atturney from Collins & Hunt for me to make sale of their Lands 28^th Being Sunday I wrode to Meeting about five miles from Town and Mr. Cochran Mrs. Spiers & Joseph Alexander wrode with me  Mr. Wilson Preach a verry Correct good sermon after sermon the most of the Congragation wrode to Mr. Perkin’s funeral  he had been taken on the 25th of this Month with what is Calld the Milk sickness and departed Saterday Evening - it is something their Cows Eat that grows in the Low Lands  - supposed to be a Weed but has never been authenticated it was a large funeral People appear'd Considerably allarm'd . . . .

 

. . . got information from an Indian Trader who had come from the Nation of all the names of the Creeks and watter Coarses along the Bounderys of Buncombe County there is from every expectation an advancing Campain against the Cherokee Nation  about three weeks since there was two Indians came in and stole two hoarses out of the south state near the line of Buncombe County and Brought the hoarses into Buncombe County and offer'd them for sale and did not get them traded the owner of them follow'd and got information the Indians took the hoarse up into a mountain on french Broad River and Return'd to the settlement the men who was on sarch was fortune in meeting them and accused them with the theft   after some time they Confes'd to the fact and Return'd to the hoars and Brought them and gave them up when the men got the hoarses they put the Indians to death and scalpt them I was in Buncombe about twenty miles from the Place the third day after wards the Nation haveing got information secur'd to of the traders  and has put them to death and the Reason they assign for this was that the white men had skalp'd the Indians in so doing  they thought it was a demonstration of War and they had also Kil'd and skilp'd two men for satisfaction the inhabitints of Buncombe County have since apply'd to Col. Vance for the Privilege to drive them out of this state the Result is yet unknown . . . [9]

 

 

Journal of Bishop Francis Asbury

 

Friday, 24 [March  1797].  I was unwell: the clouds were lowering.  We had ridden but a mile when the rain began.  Brother Jones’s house was at hand.  Here we stopped two hours, until some of the rain fell to the earth.  There was a short cessation, and about half-past twelve o’clock we set out again, rode six miles, and were driven into Mr. Cook’s by thunder, hail and rain.  Here we stopped to talk with God and man.  Hard necessity made us move forward:  the western branch of Toe River, that comes down from the Yellow Mountain, was rapidly filling; and was rocky, rolling, and roaring like the sea, and we were compelled to cross it several times.  When we came to ascend the mountain, we had a skirmish of rain, thunder, and lightning - it was distant - it was mercy. . . . We then came upon the drains and branches of Great Toe River.  From Fisher’s we had to ride through what I called the shades of death, four miles to Miller’s.  Here we had to cope with Toe River, and near the house came into deep water.  My horse drove to the opposite bank above the landing, and locked one of his feet in a root, or something like it, but freed himself.  At last we made the house; the people received us kindly, and gave us such things as they had.  We could only partially dry our garments.  We heard heavy tidings of a deep rocky ford yet to be passed in our way across Toe River. [10]

 

 

 

John Strother’s Survey Diary

 

May 12^th, 1799 – Set out from Asheville, Buncombe County, in order to meet ye commissioners appointed by the State of North Carolina to run the line between the state & ye state of Tennessee.  At Capt. Robt. Nalls on New River where I arrived the 17^th instant, met with Major Mussendine Matthews, one of the Commissioners, his son & Mr. Robt. Logan, chain bearers & markers waiting the arrival of Genl. Joseph McDowell & Col. David Vance, the other two commissioners & the rest of the company.

Ye 18^th. – No news of McDowell & Vance.  Went to Mr. Elsburg’s to wait their arrival.

19^th – Still at Elsburgs in a state of suspense.

20^th – Col. Vance and Major B. Collins arrived last night.  We left Elsburg’s & went to Capt. Issac Weaver’s where the company all met, composed of the following gentlemen (to wit) Genl. Jos. McDowell, Col. D. Vance, Major Mussendine Matthews, commissioners.  Myself & Mr. Robt. Henry, surveyors; Messers B. Collins, James Hawkins, George Penland, Robt Logan, Geo. Davidson & Josiah Matthews, chain bearers and markers;  Major James Neely, commissary; two pack horse men & a pilot.  Set out from Weavers went half a mile and camped on Stag Creek.

21^st – Set out at 8 o.c., went up Stag Creek 3 miles then ascended the ridge dividing ye water of Laurel Creek.  Continued on said ridge about 7 miles to a place call the lower Rye Patch were we refreshed ourselves till 3 o.c. p.m., then continued our route 4 miles to camp at the foot of ye Stone Mn and spent ye evening.

22^nd. – After taking a hearty breakfast we set out & ascended the Stone Mountain to ye top; found it very steep & the name very applicable.  Continued on the mountain ¾ mile to a place called the Upper Rye Patch where we encamped and Major Matthews, myself, the pilot & two chain bearers set out in order to find the place where the Virginia Line crossed the extreme height of the Stone Mountain.  After some hours search we found it in a low Gap between the head of Horsepen Creek of New River & a branch of Laurell of Holston River, 2 or 3 miles SW from the Whitetop Mountain.  We run the line between the State of N.C. & T. on the extreme height of the Stone Mn to our camp at the upper Rye Patch, where we feasted sumptuously on stewed venison & bacon while the rest of the company went back to see the place where we set out with the line from ye Virginia.

23^rd. – After a pleasant night rest & a hearty breakfast we set out & continued the line on the extreme height of the Iron or Stone Mn through extreme rough ground and some bad Laurll Thickets to a low gap at the head of the Laurel fork of Holston & the head of a branch of the Laurel fork of New River, where we camped at a very bad place for that purpose.

24^th – We had but an indifferent night’s rest, the wind blew extremely hard, the horses were much scattered this morning & were troublesome to find.  However they were at length collected.  We eat breakfast, packed up and continued the line some miles to the head of a rich hollow where we found good water.  Refreshed ourselves an hour, then set out & continued the line about ½ mile when it set in and rained most powerfully which obliged us to take up camp at the most convenient place that offered as it is but at certain places where water can be had in a reasonable distance down the mountain.  Had a very uncomfortable wet evening.

25^th. – We had a very disagreeable night the morning appears gloomy – some of our horses lost.  Mr. Logan cut his foot; it will be bad.  The horses were at length found.  We all eat our breakfast & set out on the line, went ¾ mile.  It set in and rained hard and obliged us to take up camp at the first place that offered, which was a branch of Roan’s Creek, where we spent an uncomfortable evening.  The next day being the Lard’s day we spent it here in prayers for a plesant tour to ye Painted Rock.  Genl McDowell left us this day.  He is sick.

27^th. – A fine pleasant morning set out on the line at 7 o.c. and continued about 11/2 miles to the top of a high knob from which the mns appear in every direction high and craggy.  The view is wild and romantic, yet the greatest part of the mns through which we passed for some miles back were very rich & covered with rich herbage.  The timber generally sugar tree & buckeye.  We continued on till evening, over rich mns & camped at a place we called Ramp Camp in a low gap between the left-hand fork of the Beaverdam Creek of New River & a branch of Roans Creek where we spent the evening very agreeably.

28^th. – A fine morning.  Set out at 8 o.c.  Our pilot not being acquainted with the dividing ridges further than this place Major Matthews and myself set out in search of a pilot.  Went to a Mr. Miller’s where Major Matthews got a young man as pilot & returned next day to the place where we met the rest of the company.  I went from Miller’s to Cove Creek where I got a Mr. Curtis and met the company in a low gap between the waters of Cove Cr. and Roans Creek where the road crosses ye same.  On Wednesday night the 29^th Inst. I was informed by Mr. Henry that (Josiah) Matthews was no woodsman.  Of course he was discharged.  From where I left the company to this place the Mns generally rich & fertile.

30^th. – After a comfortable night’s rest we eat a hearty breakfast & set out on the line.  The morning gloomy.  All continued the line about 2 miles when it set in and rained hard which obliged us to take up camp in a low gap between the waters of Cove Cr. and Roan’s Cr. where we had an uncomfortable wet evening.  The gnats most insufferably bad.

31^st. – We had a blustering rainy night; severe lightening & some hard claps of thunder.  The company very little the better of their night’s rest.  Drank a cup of coffee, eat some broiled bacon and Johnny cake, then set out on the line with the prospect of a fine day.  Ascended the Stone Mn, continued on the extreme height 6 mi to the Star Gap on ye same where we camped as much fatigued as men could be in going that distance through Lucust thicket, over rocky knobs & narrow ridges almost impassable.

 Saturday, June 1.  After being much refreshed from our last night’s rest we eat a hearty breakfast.  Started and continued ye state line along the extreme height of ye Stone Mn in the course of one mile.  Seen a very large rattlebug; attempted to kill it, but it was too souple in the heels for us.  Continued about 2 m further, took several observations of ye Yellow Mn.  Ground very rough.  Came to Wattaga River at a very rocky place, crossed on rocks and proceeded near one mile where we encamped on a handsome eminence near a good spring.  One of our party turned out and killed a two-year-old she bear.  Very poor.  Upon which and some bacon stewed together with some good Tea and johnny cake we made a Sabbath breakfast fit for a European Lord.

Monday, 2^nd.  The company being much refreshed we breakfasted & started early this morning and continued the state line 3 or 4 miles through very rough hilly ground and encamped on ye waters of Elk Creek.  Had a pleasant evening.  The gnats extremely troublesome here, as well as in all other places in the mts at this season.

Tuesday 3^rd. – Set out on the line at 7 o.c.  A fair morning.  Continued it about 3 or 4 m through extreme bad ground.  Crossed Elk Creek, ascended a steep spur, crossed & encamped at a place where there was nothing but honeysuckle & laurel for our horses to feed on.  This camp is called Camp Poverty.

Wednesday, 5^th – After a good night’s rest (it being windy the gnats did not plague us) we eat a hearty breakfast and examined the provision bags which appeared to decline fast, the consumption being imperceptably  stealing on them for some days past and I am apprehensive they will fail to supply us longer than tomorrow unless a speedy remedy is applied.  We set out at 7 o.c. & continued the line through extreme bad ground to a low gap on a ridge leading from the Ripshin Mn to ye Yellow moun’n where we encamped at a good spring and excellent range.  Major Neely turned off the line today & went to Doe River settlement for a fresh supply of provisions & is to meet us at ye Yellow Mn.

Thursday, June 6^th – A plesant clear morning.  Slep sound & comfortable last night.  Had no gnats to trouble us.  Breakfast on short allowance and set out on the line at 7 o.c.  Went about 2 m to the top of the Yellow Mn ½ m from ye Yellow spot on a course N.W. by W. at Bright’s path, then went to ye Yellow spot in order to take observations, but was disappointed by a hard thunderstorm.  The lightning and thunder was so severe that it was truly alarming.  The trees at this place is just a-creaping out of there winter’s garb.  We went back and continued the line on to a low gap at the head of Roaring or Sugar Creek to Towe River and a Cr. of Doe R. at the road leading from Morganton to Jonesborough where we encamped as wet as we could be.  Mr. Hawkins & myself went down to Sugar Cr. to a Mr. Curreys where we got a good supper & a bed to sleep in.

Friday 7^th – This morning very wet & is still a-raining.  Took breakfast with Mrs. Currey and got our clothes washed & went to camp where Major Neely met us with a fresh supply of provisions.  It rained all day.  Of course we are still at our camp at ye head of Sugar Cr.

Saturday, 8^th – A pleasant fair morning.  We packed up and proceeded on with the line, 4 to 5 m. crossed a high spur of the Roan Mn to a low gap therein where we encamped at a pleasant Beech flat & good spring.  Spent the Sabbath day on taking observations from the high spur we crossed, in gathering the fir oil of ye Balsam of Pine which is found on this mountain, in collecting a root said to be an excellent preventation against the bite of a Rattlesnake, and in viewing the wonderful scenes this conspicuous situation affords.  There is no shrubbage grows on the tops of ths Mn for several miles, say 5.  The wind has such a power on the top of this mountain that the ground is blowed in deep holes all over the northwest sides.  The prospects from the Roan Mn is more conspicuous than from any other part of the Appelatchin Mns.

Monday 10^th – Set out on the state line at 7 o.c. with the pleasing prospect of a fair day.  Ascended a high spur of the Roan Mn; took sundry observations of the neighboring Mns.  Proceeded on between head of Rock Cr and Doe R to a low gap.  Got some good water.  Marked initials of my name on a Sugar tree.  Proceeded on with the line a few miles and encamped in a low gap at the head of a spring of Doe R. & Rock Creek.

Tuesday, 11^th – After a comfortable night’s rest we breakfasted early and set out at 7 o.c.  A pleasant morning.  Continued the line through high woods 5 or 6 m to the foot of the Iron Mn when we all emcamped at a pleasant place and good spring.  Called it Strother Camp, where we spent the evening quite agreeably.

Wednesday 12^th – Spent last night agreeable.  Was entertained with some good songs, then slipped ourselves up in our blankets sleep sound till this morning.  Arose, eat our breakfast, packed up & started the line.  Colo. Vance & Neely went to the Limestone settlement for a Pilot.  Returned to us at the line at 2 o.c. with a Mr. Collier Pilot & two gallons whiskey.  We stopped, drank our own health & proceeded on the line.  Ascended a steep spur of the Unaker Mn.  Got into a Laurel thicket, cut our way some distance.  Night came on.  We turned back and camped at a very bad place, it being a steep Laurelly hollow, but the whiskey had such miraculous powers that it made the place tolerably comfortable.

Thursday, 13^th – This morning our pilot informs us that the Pack horses cannot proceed on with the line, the Mns through which it runs being impassable for two or three days march.  Myself, together with the chain Brs. & markers packed our provisions on our backs and proceed on with the line.  The horses & rest of the compy was conducted round by the pilot a different route.  We continued the line through a bad laurel thicket to ye top of ye Unaker Mn and along the same about 3 M & camped at a bad laurelly branch.

Friday 14^th. – Set out early, went through a bad laurel thicket into a low gap where we got clear of laurel & continued on the extreme height of the Unaker Mn to the Path (? ? ?) ye same from ye Hollow poplar to ye Greasy Cove.  Met our company.  It rained hard.  We encamped on ye top of ye Mn ½ M from water.  Had an uncomfortable evening.

Saturday, 15^th. – This morning I prevailed with the commissioners to discharge Mr. Collier as the information he gave us respecting the Unaker Mn was false.  Of course, he could not be acquainted with the leading Mn & was only an imposter.  He was discharged & we continued on the state line to ye place where Nolechuckey breaks through the Unaker or Iron Mn.  Finding it impracticable to take horses from this place on the line to ye Bald Mn, Mr. Henry, the chain bearers & markers took provisions on their backs, proceeded on the line & the horses went round by the Greasy Cove & met the rest of the compy on Sunday on the top of the Bald Mn where we tarried till Tuesday morning.

Tuesday, 18^th. – Set out early this morning on ye line.  Col. Robt. Love our pilot continued it along in the extreme height of the Mt about 5 m to a low gap between the head of Indian Cr. & the waters of ye So. Fork of laurel where we encamped & called it Vance Camp.  The Mns through which we passed today is generally good & rich.

Wednesday 19^th. – The gnats was very severe on us last night.  Collected our horses, packed up and set out 7 o.c.  Fair morning, proceeded on the line 4 or 5 m over some very steep rough knobs to Boons Cove between the waters of Laurel and Indian Cr. Where we encamped & spent the evening quite agreeable.

Thursday 20^th. – Set out at 7 o.c.  Proceed on the line 4 m over steep, rocky & bushy knobs, and encamped on ye waters of Indian Cr ½ m from the line.  This day’s march was very severe, water scarce & that a considerable distance from the line.  Had but an indifferent night’s rest.  The ground being very steep where we encamped and the cause of our resting but little.  Add to this the severity of gnats.

Friday 21^st. – Our horses rambled a mile or two from camp, bad range.  At length they were collected and at 8 o.c. on the line proceeded on about 3 m to a high Buckeye Ridge to a thick laurelly, narrow rocky ridge, impassable for man or horse.  Attempted to go around it, continued ½ m through laurel & rocks & encamped at a rocky Br. of Laurel River.  No food for our horses; they suffered much for two days past both for water & food.

Saturday 22^nd. – Made an early start.  The horses look very bad.  Cut our way up to ye top of ye Mn & proceed on with the line 11/4 M.  Was four hours & 23 mts going this distance.  Got through the laurel and came into an open flattop Beech Mn. Where we encamped till Monday at a good spring & excellent range for our horses.

Monday 24^th. – Our provisions is getting very much exhausted.  Set out at 6 o.c. and proceed on the line 6 m.  Went over on very high rough laruelly knob and through some poor flattop Mns, crossed the road leading from Barnets Station to the Bushy Cove and encamped in a low gap between the waters of Paint Creek and Laurel River.  Had a wet evening.  Suped on venison stewed with a recruit of bacon Major Neely brought us this day from ye Brushy Cove settlement.

Tuesday, 25^th. – Set out early.  Proceeded on the line about 3 m over very poor brushy knobs, then missed the right ridge & fell in and encamped in a fork of Paint Cr where we had a very comfortable time of it.

Wednesday, 26^th. – The surveyors, markers & chain bearers set out early this morning & took the line on the right ridge from ye place we got off of it & proceed on the line 5 m & encamped between the waters of F.B.R. & Paint Cr.

Thursday 27^th. – This morning cloudy and hasey.  The commissioners being anctous to get on to the Painted Rock started us early.  Went on with the line a wrong ridge and fell in another fork of Paint Cr.  Returned & encamped on the right ridge where we spent our time uncomfortable this evening.

Friday, 28^th. – Set out very early and proceeded on the line about 4 m to the painted rock on FB River, about 5 m below the Warm Springs.  Measured the height of the rock & found it to be 107 feet 3 inches high from top to the base.  It rather projects over the face of the rock; bears but few traces of its having formerly been painted, owing to its having been smoked by pine knots and other wood from a place at its base where travelers have frequently camped.  In the year 1790 it was not much smoked; the pictures of some humans, wild beasts, fish & fowls were to be seen plainly made with red paint, some of them 20 & 30 feet from its base.

There is another rock on F.B. River about 7 m higher up on the opposite side or S.W. side in a very obscure place which some gentlemen of Tennessee wish to construe as the painted rock referred to in an act of the Genl. Assembly of No. Carolina entitled an act to cede to the United States certain western lands therein described.  But it is to be observed that there is no Rock on French Broad River that ever was known as the painted rock but the one first described, which has ever since the River F. Broad was explored by white men been a place of Publick Notriety.

There may be and I believe there is a rock known by a few Hunters as the paint rock Situate about 7 m above the Painted Rock on the S.W. side of French Broad River opposite to an island known by the name of the Mountain Island, but in so obscure a place that but few knows of it & them few only knows it as the paint rock so that it appears to me that the rock first described is unquestionably the rock on F.B. River contemplated by the act of the Genl. Assembly before alluded to.  This rock is situated on the N.E. Side of French Broad River just above the mouth of a Cr. Emptying in on ye same side called Paint Creek, from whence the River runs S.W. 10 m then winds to ye N.W. & W 15 M & receives the mouth of Big Pigeon, ect. ect.

We then went up to the Warm Springs where we spent the evening in conviviality and friendship.

Saturday, 29^th. – The company set our for home to which place I wish them a safe arrival and happy reception.  As for myself, I stay at the Springs to get clear of the fatigue of the Tour. [11]